Moda na era do Tiktok : do supermercado de estilos às tendências virais

Abstract

Based on a constant renewal system (LIPOVETSKY, 2009), fashion has a long-standing partnership in communication. Since the first women's magazines, fashion has associated with the media to propagate and renew trends and, as information technologies advance, the cycles of the fashion world also accelerate (SCHMITZ, 2018). In this way, fashion is a social mechanism directly impacted by changes in the media ecosystem, which not only transform the useful lifespan of styles, but above all the propagation dynamics and access to news. Since the appearance of the first bloggers, there is an argument about the end of the dominant trends and, before that, Polhemus (2016) had already coined the concept of a supermarket of styles to illustrate the phenomenon of aesthetic experimentation at the end of the 20th century. Now, after the phenomenon of blogs and the rise of digital influencers, the popularization of TikTok introduces a new rupture in the fashion system. Therefore, this research intends to understand how the fashion system is reorganized by the behavior of the brazilian Fashion TikTok. Due to the complexity of our object of study, we decided to adapt the methods of ethnography to build an adequate methodology for the proposed problem. We used the ethnographic approach for observation and data collection through the procedures of Kozinets (2002) for the entrée cultural and selection of the studied group, and the protocols of Abidin (2020) for immersion in the community. Through a theoretical review we begin by identifying the structural characteristics of the fashion system. Considering these characteristics, we analyze four trends launched on the catwalks and incorporated into the brazilian Fashion TikTok community. The analysis results indicate that TikTok is related to the resumption of imposing trends in fashion. In a network dominated by Generation Z, the fashion system seems to be reactivated as clothing becomes a symbol of integration into a community. A new phase is underway in the fashion world, in which access to information is free and, increasingly, massified, while the creation and propagation of trends returns to a closed and distinctive model.